The Beautiful Defiance: Pitti Uomo 107

Against a legacy of Schuberth's revolution, Florence's historic fair commands global menswear's future while markets tremble and luxury houses reshuffle their crowns.

The Beautiful Defiance: Pitti Uomo 107

Earning the moniker of the “tailor of the stars,” or more explicitly the divas’ tailor, the Naples-born couturier Emilio Schuberth was a leading catalyst in Italy’s rise from a post-war poverty-stricken nation to an open panorama of creativity, and the birth of the “Made in Italy” slogan, luring in the fashion cognoscenti to explore and indulge in this burgeoning cultural atmosphere. Ava Gardner considered him her personal tailor, while fellow American stars Bette Davis and Rita Hayworth were frequent visitors to his Rome atelier. 

But it was in Florence, at Villa Torrigiani, the private residence of Giovanni Battista Giorgini, on February 12th 1951, that Schuberth, along with a troupe of accomplished Italian designers and fashion houses, participated in the “First Italian High Fashion Show,” which effectively launched Italian fashion onto the global market. 

Six major North American fashion buyers were present that day, merely as a courtesy gesture. However, at the next rendition in July, which anticipated more American visitors, LIFE Magazine later reported that one hotel “had to use maids’ rooms and the manager’s own suite to house the expectant multitude of buyers, designers and editors”. The following year, Florence's Grand Hotel hosted the Spring/Summer collections before moving to Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti. 

Italian actress Anna Magnani and American actress Bette Davis visiting Italian stylist Emilio Federico Schuberth in his atelier, Rome 30th May 1958. Getty Images.

In July 2022 Polimoda, the private fashion school in Florence, held a press conference to celebrate the 70th anniversary of this debut of Italian fashion on the runway of the Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti, and to marvel at Giorgini’s enduring promotion of young talents without limit which, among other fashion dignitaries, included the CEO of Pitti Immagine, Raffaello Napoleone. 

Starting a week later this year on Jan 14, lasting 3 days, Pitti Uomo 107 begins Europe's menswear semester with Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which will be January 17–21, and Paris Men’s Fashion Week, from January 21–26. The shift in dates, which overlaps the traditional schedule of the men's fall market in New York, is causing frustration among trade show operators and menswear business partners across the pond. A masterstroke or not, it’s a timely intervention, given that 2024 was a year of immense transition. In the realm of politics, a record-breaking number of people cast ballots; in the fashion industry, past and present Pitti guests, Fendi and Maison Margiela are two of the host of elite luxury houses that have undergone unprecedented changes amongst boldfaced named designers, and then there are the inevitable financial implications, which each year, especially 2024 for luxury, require innovative actions amongst industry insiders.

Since 1995, Rafaello Napoleone, the CEO of Pitti Immagine, parent of Pitti Uomo, has held a significant influence in the upper echelon hierarchy of fashion. Last year, he commented on the current climate, stating, "Fashion is going through a complex phase of transition while presenting the novelties of the upcoming edition." And for the 107th Pitti Uomo, FIRE will serve as the theme, and according to Agostino Poletto, general director of Pitti Immagine, fire is a primordial force that “unites and warms bodies and souls, attracts attention, and signals direction” — a sentiment that soothes the many unexpected challenges of the last year.

On Tuesday, brands, buyers, journalists, photographers, and ultra-enthusiasts presenting a spectrum of delectable or not outfits descend on the “birthplace of the Renaissance.” However, within the walls of Firenze’s Fortezza da Basso, keeping a beady eye on patterns, fabrics, and silhouettes — and that’s not even dissecting illuminative fresh outfit ideas — your innate menswear psyche will transcend to openness, and the oodles of ingenuity in comprising outfits is rather thrilling. 

Around 790 brands, 45% of which are foreign, will be exhibiting at Pitti Uomo 107. As eluded to, Maison Margiela returns to Pitti under MM6; their diffusion line is a special guest, where they will continue to explore the dialogue between deconstructed artistry and characteristic individuality. Pitti's well-known stalwarts — there are many — may recall Maison Margiela's immersive presentation in the abandoned Teatro Puccini theatre in 2006, their last showing at Pitti. The other chosen guest is Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, the 2023 LVMH Prize winner, who is concocting this exciting avant-garde, couture-like design aesthetic. And in addition to the aforementioned Pitti guests, the exclusive Karl Lagerfeld event will take place on January 15 from 3 pm to 5 pm, where attendees will be enchanted by the live acoustic performance by the rising star, Victor Ray, who is also a global ambassador for Karl Lagerfeld.

As always, the renowned brands, mainly British and Italian, trading in the Fantastic Classic section, one of the event’s five, will introduce and remind people of the trailblazing and special craftsmanship steps that produce such timeless pieces. For their first showing at Pitti, the largely unknown brands Eiderscutum and Bramani Cashmere are worth stopping by. 

Returning to Polimoda, they unveil AN/ARCHIVE EVENT TWO: BLUE R/Evolution at Pitti Uomo 107, which is a groundbreaking exhibition project exploring the cultural, social, and anthropological evolution of denim and the colour blue. Running from January 14 to February 15, this is an unmissable educational event. But back to historical brands and their participation at Pitti, the enigmatic French leather manufacturers CHAPAL, known worldwide for their exquisite interpretations of leather jackets, will be trading under the Futuro Maschile section at stand 1 12 at Padiglione Centrale.

The Pitti social soirees always cultivate an unbridled shared passion for design, craftsmanship, and heritage in communal settings. There will be an abundance of vitality, expressions, and lively camaraderie accompanied by a Negroni in hand, often at Harry's Bar. We look forward to sharing our dispatches from menswear’s most important trade fair. 

Shaban Ali at Pitti Uomo 105 photographed by Jeroen Noordzij.
Carlos Domínguez at Pitti Uomo 105 photographed by Jeroen Noordzij.
Kévis Manzi at Pitti Uomo 105 photographed by Jeroen Noordzij.

Featured image: A couple of models is walking down on the catwalk in Palazzo Pitti on the occasion of the fashion parade men and women knitwear spring-summer collection 1967: the geometrical decorated cloth by Ken Scott is the same both for man and woman. Florence (Italy), January 19th, 1967.