In Naples there is still an abundance of family-run tailoring dynasties. Rubinacci, Attolini, Kiton and Fralbo are just a few of the distinguished Neapolitan houses that continue their longstanding traditions under family-ownership. It is unlike Savile Row, where the last vestiges of generational tailoring only exists with the eponymous bespoke firms, Henry Poole & Co and Dege & Skinner. Not as familiar an appellation as these tailoring stalwarts, but with kindred links are Byrne & Burge who we warmly welcome into The Rake’s e-commerce fold. Primarily a bespoke house, Byrne & Burge have produced a ready-to-wear line bearing the same stylistic qualities as their bespoke service.
The firm was established in 2007 by Joshua Byrne and Emmeline Burge. To our knowledge they’re the only husband and wife team in the Row’s tailoring orbit, thus positioning themselves nicely to create a new family tailoring legacy in the area. Despite coming into tailoring via different routes, it was at the aforementioned bespoke house, Henry Poole & Co where Joshua and Emmeline both met. At No.15 Savile Row, one of tailoring’s most charismatic, well-dressed, and highly regarded cutters, whose career on the Row spanned over 60 years was still making time to train younger tailors. This was the inimitable Arthur Catchpole whose rostrum of past clients included Clark Gable, Charlie Chaplin, Hubert de Givenchy and Grace Kelly. Many of his clients were recommended to him by Douglas Fairbanks Jr. As a mentor, Arthur Catchpole had a perennial influence on Joshua Byrne. Catchpole believed that tailoring’s heyday was the 1930s and 1940s and with this in mind Byrne & Burge’s own style imbues many elements of the designs of the eras.