"The English winter: ending in July
to recommence in August.” It would often seem that Lord Byron made
a valid point with such statements. But one notion that isn’t
exaggerated is a man’s perennial search for the ultimate winter
coat. Season upon season, we see some struggle and some thrive, and it simply
comes down to the style of coat that is protecting your back when
facing the extremities.
We’ve taken the liberty of speaking
to some of the industry’s notable clothiers to discuss the
fundamental winter coats every man should consider - and own - at
one point in his life.
The Belted Coat
By Gaiola
Relaxed, versatile and utterly comfortable with a certain
quality of loucheness, the belted coat is a winter wardrobe
must-have. The option of a belt to cinch in the waist and the
generous wrap lends practicality, making for a garment you'll want
to live in all season long.
One of our go-to belted coats this winter is by Gaiola, a new
menswear label founded by Alessandro Agazzi and Fabrizio
and Cristiano De Petrillo that offers a fresh take on Neapolitan
tailoring. Its long, single-breasted iteration of a belted coat is
softly constructed in an unstructured, duster-style cut, allowing
its wearer to make the most of the Italian wool's superior
softness.
Wear yours with jeans and boots or throw it over a suit for more
formal appeal.
The Peacoat
By Schott
Although the classic Peacoat we have
come to know is synonymous with the US Navy, it was initially
adopted during the early 20th century from Britain’s Royal Navy
Reefer Jacket - a very heavy wool, dark navy, double breasted
garment that would allow its wearer ease of movement through its
rigging.
Today, the classic peacoat, such as
this
one, is quite possibly the last woollen
coat you will ever need to purchase, thanks to its quality material
and level of craftsmanship.
“Servicemen
kept out of the cold with Schott's classic melton wool naval
peacoat, which, to this day, is rugged and warm and effortlessly
stylish,” says Marcus Harris, Scott's UK Sales
Representative.
“When considering a winter coat this
season, I would think about four key factors: style, comfort,
durability and warmth. In my humble opinion, the peacoat ticks all
those boxes, even throughout the harshest of winters.”
The Ulster Coat
By Rubinacci
Historically, the
Ulster coat was worn by
Victorians as a daytime overcoat. It was Rubinacci house, however, that was the first
to popularise - and elevate - its style in the 1930s. Seen on the
backs of Italian royals, actors and the upper echelons of society
alike, the Ulster coat has stood the test of time thanks to its
timeless style, practicality and technical detailing. It is
arguably considered the seminal tailored great coat - and the
perfect addition to any man’s winter repertoire.
“The Ulster coat is one of the most
complex coat designs to make due to its technical details, such as
the martingala. It can sometimes take up to 10 hours to craft one
complete coat,” explains Luca Rubinacci, Creative Director of
Rubinacci.
“It [the Ulster Coat] became a
Rubinacci staple because it’s a coat that our clients can’t find
anywhere else in the world. We can offer them this product, whether
it be bespoke or ready-to-wear, that is more complicated and
difficult to see than any other coat design, and our clients
appreciate this level of detail and quality.”
The Ulster coat is defined by its
half-belt at the back - otherwise known as a martingala - which is
incredibly delicate to design, thus setting apart the Ulster to its
counterparts.
Rubinacci adds, “the Ulster works
fantastically with different types of fabric, like Italian
Casentino cloth, and is an overcoat that is sporty but with the
right combination can be used as a classic overcoat. It’s very
versatile and that’s why it has become a part of our iconic
collection.”
The Overcoat
By Kit
Blake
A coat that many would be accustomed
to, the classic overcoat is simply a style that cannot be
overlooked this coming season - and is quite possibly a garment
that every man should own.
London haberdasher Kit Blake, who
specialise in smart, well-made staple menswear garments, have
crafted the stalwart
overcoat in Italy in a traditional navy, double breasted
with a pleated back and a half-belt detail - exclusively for The
Rake.
“Every man needs a great overcoat as
it is the perfect transitional piece and can replace a blazer or
sports jacket for business dress,” says Christopher Modoo, Creative
Director, Kit Blake.
“Our classic overcoat is long and dramatic and is really a great
coat. It has a sweeping silhouette with a box pleat across the back
and a long deep, buttoned inverted pleat instead of a vent. It has
a lot of character with wide lapels and sleeves that finish with
turn-back cuffs.”
The Raincoat
By Mackintosh
A Scottish clothier steeped in over 200 years of history,
Mackintosh’s iconic status was born from Scottish chemist Charles
Macintosh, who invented a new method of waterproofing cotton. This
invention - which was revolutionary for the time - led to the
development of rubberised outerwear. Thus, the Mackintosh - or
“Mac” - coat was born.
“After two centuries, our signature
bonded cotton coat continues to be made using the same original
methods in our workshop outside Glasgow, Scotland, which requires
an exceptional amount of hand craftsmanship, resulting in only a
limited number of garments produced each year,” says
Andrea Austoni, Global Commercial Director of
Mackintosh.
“The extraordinary time, effort and
thought that goes into each coat is precisely what makes a
Mackintosh coat so special. It really is the ultimate winter coat
as it keeps all the elements at bay, it’s practical and it’s design
is timeless - you can style our coats with tailoring or more
casually with jeans.”
The Mac is made purely by hand and
worked on individually from start to finish by the same master
craftsman, making not only a garment of integrity, but something
you will own for years to come. The Iconic Mac comes in three
different silhouettes: Dunkeld (original), Dunoon (shorter), Dunoon
Hood (detachable hood) and Chryston (iconic fit with fixed
hood).
