Pitti Uomo 100: A Timely Reunion
From tailgating with Alexander Kraft to evenings with Vitale Barberis Canonico 1663 and Liverano & Liverano, Scarosso, WM Brown Magazine and WOLF, the menswear world were briefly reunited under the dazzling summer sun of Firenze.
Pitti Uomo has long been the most anticipated menswear tradeshow in the calendar year. When the world suddenly stopped in its tracks shortly after Pitti 97, for many of us, the inability to travel into Firenze left us with a void which could only be filled by its return — no matter how hard we may have tried. From replicating Caffè Gilli’s negronis in our livings rooms and sharing old photos on Instagram, to discussing Pitti style through our Rakes At Home series, there was a quiet sense of optimism early in Spring 2021 when the organisers of Pitti Uomo essentially refused to throw in the towel. And for that, we cannot thank you enough. Whilst restrictions and Covid-related confusion meant that a significant proportion of the menswear world were still unable to attend this year, those of us lucky enough to travel (or be based in Italy), saw a small-yet-mighty reunion under the dazzling summer sun of Florence — beginning with Vitale Barberis Canonico 1663 and Liverano & Liverano. In the company of Francesco Barberis Canonico and Antonio Liverano respectively, the first of Pitti 100’s events took place at Sartoria Antonio Liverano, the beautiful atelier a stone’s throw away from the Arno. The night was in celebration of the ongoing partnership between two of the most recognised names in menswear, and particularly, Antonio Liverano’s Humanity made-to-measure line created in collaboration with VBC.
All of the best evenings usually end at the world famous Harry’s Bar, so if it ain’t broken, why fix it? A collaborative partnership between Matt Hranek of WM Brown Magazine and WOLF — the Negroni tweed collection — ensured another night to remember as the sun began to set and negronis flowed as smoothly as the Arno besides us. The following morning, we had the privilege of listening into a panel featuring some of the finest names in the tailoring and wider menswear world: Gianni Cleopazzo, Antonio Liverano, Gaetano Aloisio, Cristina Dalcuore, Damiano Annunziato, Mauro Crimi and photographer Massi Ninni all joined friend of The Rake, Fabio Attanasio, to discuss his latest book, The Scent of Tailoring.
After a day catching up with old friends and new, we collectively sauntered through the cobbled streets to the final destination of this visit, the Palazzo Ricasoli. “Negronis, Cigars, Wines and Good Times” read the invitation, and naturally, it was too good to turn down. The wonderful Alexander Kraft’s Tailgating party was replete with the aforementioned vices, good company, Kraft’s fine assortment of motors — the Overkraft (Range Rover Classic with a bespoke built-in bar), the Kraftazon (the recently purchased and customised Volvo) and the old Lady (a Bentley Turbo R). Party-goers (or should we say tailgaters), were able to view the Alexander Kraft Monte Carlo collection in person, as well as spend time with our favourite companion, Bertie.