Book nerds, posh boys, rowing oafs and high-school jocks -
there's never been a better time to school your wardrobe in the
finer arts of preppy style. Originating in the collegiate styles of
the Ivy League establishments at the turn of the 20th century - but
which only really became a 'thing' in the 50s - this form of
dressing stemmed from the traditions of the big colleges in the
Northwestern states, which in turn took many of their cues from the
Oxbridge styles across the pond. As they cemented their status as
globally renowned institutions of academic excellence and political
clout, the campus 'couture' spread far and wide, noticeable for its
references to leisure sports, among which being lacrosse, polo,
sailing, rowing, fencing and golf. They were also marked by a
distinctive exclusivity, often bearing the badges, patterns and
stripes of hard-to-get-into clubs and divisions. But it was the
proliferation of iconic films in the 80s and 90s that really took
the collegiate look to new accessible heights, from which perch it
has remained for no other reason than it is an easy-to-wear and
versatile style of dressing.
We distilled our favourite films influenced by preppy style into
four self-contained looks, so go treat your inner English nerd, or
give your secret jock self a slap on the ass!
Ferris Bueller's Day Off
(1986)
Tan Leather Bomber Jacket,
Z Zegna; Brown Cashmere Vest,
Rubinacci; White Cotton Mix T-Shirt,
Hamilton&Hare; White Leather Trainers,
Crown Northampton; Classic Black Wayfarers,
Ray-Ban.
Arguably director John Hughes's finest hour and 43 minutes,
Ferris Bueller's Day Off ranks up there with his other cult flick
The Breakfast Club. The raucous send-up of American teen culture
sees high-school slacker Ferris pull an ingenious sickie from
school, while coaxing his best friend and girlfriend into capers
with a stolen Ferrari, all the while thwarting a frothing school
principle. Laced with meta references and a classic soundtrack, one
can't help to cheer on the hazardous rogue Bueller and he
insouciantly strides from one narrowly avoided disaster to another.
The wardrobe is a marvel of late preppiness, influenced more by the
workwear traditions of Americana than by the more formal modes of
Oxbridge style. Think leather bombers, lo-fi sneakers, simple tees
and shades - every bit as cool today as it was in '86.
Dead Poet's Society
(1989)
Navy Flannel Blazer with Cream
Grosgrain Trim and Burgundy Corduroy Sphinx Cap both at
Rowing Blazers; White Superior Cotton Shirt,
Emma Willis; Red and Cream Silk Striped Tie,
Edward Sexton; Burgundy Merino Cardigan,
Anderson&Sheppard; Beige Cotton Chinos,
New & Lingwood; Burgundy Silk Scarf,
Gieves and Hawkes; Brown Leather Brogues,
George Cleverley.
Dead Poet's Society comprises a fictional tragedy of
its own, leading to a profoundly melancholic moment 15 years later.
Private school teacher John Keating played by one of the funniest
actors of all time, Robin Williams, is blamed by senior heads for
the suicide of one of his students. With outpourings of grief and
affection at the centre of poetry taught by John Keating, the
character's actor Robin Williams would later take his own life.
Peter Weir's film is about an enigmatic and unconventional teacher
and the students whose lives he turns upside down. Who could forget
the shouting, “O Captain! My Captain!” scene showing the entire
class rise up and stand on their desks, united in honour of their
teacher. The emotionally wounded Keating leaves a restored man,
buoyed by their full support, which portrays the films gentle
anti-establishment message. Its fictional setting of the
conservative, Vermont boarding school Welton Academy, couldn't
embody the preppy apparel quite so perfectly. The school uniform of
gold buttoned blazers with embroidered school badges, accessorised
with brightly coloured school ties, hanging down a white shirt is
the epitome of Ivy League preppy.
Brideshead Revisited
(1981)
Brown Cashmere Cable Knit Jumper,
Anderson & Sheppard; Grey Gabardine Wide Leg
Trousers, Edward Sexton; White Cotton Shirt,
Eton Shirts; Blue Striped Silk Tie,
Fumagalli 1891; Two Tone Leather and Canvas
Brogues, Joseph Cheaney & Sons.
The serial is an adaptation of the novel written by arguably
Britain's greatest prose stylist of the English language in the
20th century in Evelyn Waugh. It follows, from the 1920s
to the early 1940s, the life of protagonist Charles Ryder,
including his friendships and youthful flings at Oxford University,
with at first charming drunk Sebastian and then a passionate but
doomed affair with the latter's sister Julia. Charles Ryder finds
that the power and privilege experienced by the family is
seductive, but he finds himself at odds with their strong Roman
Catholicism. It explores the class-obsessed preppy side of Oxford
along with its more liberal virtues. The attire in the film is a
fine illustration of sophistication at the time. Three-piece
double-breasted suits with fluid flannel trousers with English
pleats and turn-ups were prominent throughout. Sebastian Flyte was
an insatiable forbearer of the Oxford and Cambridge aesthetic of
the time. The adaptation really delves into the romanticism, the
decadence and the poor boy/rich boy dynamic. Oxford and Cambridge
are known for picnics, punting, blazers with braiding, white
cricket flannels and reciting poetry. Considering the era, this was
Oxbridge preppy at its sartorial height.
Chariots of Fire
(1981)
Cream Wool and Cashmere Mix
Knitted Jacket and Cream Cashmere Polo Sweater both at
Anderson & Sheppard; White Cotton Collarless
Polo Shirt, Merz.b Schwanen; White cotton Mix
Pleated Trousers, Pantaloni Torino; Brown Leather
Trainers, Franceschetti; Brown Woven Belt,
Elliott Rhodes.
Chariots of Fire directed by Hugh Hudson, who is
acclaimed to have revitalised the fading British film industry, is
based on the true story of two British athletes competing in the
1924 Summer Olympics in Paris. Britons Harold Abrahams and Eric
Liddell are both naturally gifted sprinters. It explores the
protruding class-prejudice of the 1920s. Eric Liddell is a devout
Scottish Christian who runs for the glory of God. Harold is the son
of a Lithuanian Jew, who lives a somewhat privileged life as a
student at Cambridge and uses being the fastest to overcome what he
sees as the obstacles he faces in life as a Jew. Liddell learns
from the newspapers the race is on Sunday, deciding to give a
sermon in church instead of race. Abraham’s is badly beaten by the
heavily favoured United States runners in the 200-metre race. He
knows his last chance for a medal will be the 100 metres which he
wins. The accoutrements of the film include smart crew-neck
sweaters, often underneath rowing blazers. The characters often
wore plain white shirts, accessorised by bowties and a straw
boater. It’s the classical Oxford and Cambridge preppy combination
when dressing accordingly for spectating or arriving to participate
in leisurely sports.
