After a working week wearing a shirt collar every day, the weekend is all about ditching the formality for a more
casual aesthetic. That said, it's no excuse to get lazy.The Rake's editors and writers share their advice
on how to go collarless while still retaining a lofty level of sartorial sophistication.
Tom Chamberlin, Editor
The call to casual clothing is becoming irresistible. I have been unbound from the mast
and writing to the siren call largely because brands are trying to master the grey area between classic formality
and laid-back insouciance. The Henley shirt has always been a handsome alternative to the classic cotton shirt, and
functions well as an undergarment, especially in hot weather. To throw a suede jacket over it that can be worn open
or closed ticks the box whereby you not only look sharp, but also unashamedly casual.
Ryan Thompson, Digital Editor
Members' clubs often insist on a collars-only policy, even in these days of increasingly
relaxed sartorial rules. Why? Because whether cutaway, spread or tab, collars are inherently and invariably smart.
They frame your face and give structure to your neckline, conveying a certain element of authority. But there are
times, weekends especially, when a) they’re simply overkill or b) after a working week, you just don’t feel like
scaffolding your neck with fabric. In such instances, I’ll reach for a fine-gauge cable knit sweater such as Richard James’ brown version pictured
here. Although you’d normally associate cable knits with the winter, James’ version is light enough for summer
evenings. Pair it with Lardini’s off-white
pleated Madrid trousers for a considered but casual aesthetic and glue the look together with Elliot Rhodes’ tan handwoven
Jessica Beresford, Managing Director
More than physically not having to wake up before the birds on the weekend, there’s also something incredibly
cathartic about not having to put on clothes associated with work come Saturday. While a collared shirt looks sharp,
it’s a relief to occasionally let loose, and this piece from Anderson & Sheppard is a way to be smart and
comfortable. Pair with some lightweight trousers, slip-on loafers, and you’ve got an easy casual look.
Benedict Browne, Editorial Associate
I won’t bore you with the adage that formal dress codes are becoming increasingly more
relaxed each season, that’s ancient news. It’s a thing, dear Rake reader. When it comes to evening wear,
relaxed codes of dress become interesting, and I’m eager to put it to the test by sporting a T-shirt beneath a shawl
lapel dinner jacket from Chester
Barrie. In doing so, I’ll no doubt infuriate the purists out there, for which I can only offer my
sincerest apologies. I wouldn’t opt for a white T-shirt, as that would create too much contrast, but instead a tonal
choice will subdue the ensemble and make it appear a bit more understated and tasteful. I’ve never been one for the
traditional pump, either. For me, it’s too dated (I’m a millennial, after all). The only suitable alternative is a
Belgian loafer, either in
suede or velvet, and Rubinacci wins that
competition all day long.
Hannah Enderby, Social Media Manager
Now that it’s warming up in the city, there are few better places to ditch the collar and catch a cool
breeze than on board a yacht. While on your voyage you’ll want to swathe yourself in some suitably maritime attire.
The Hamilton and Hare white Pima
cotton T-shirt is as relaxed as it is timeless and when paired with Rubinacci’s light grey wool trousers, you have
a look that’s both comfortable on deck and smart enough for disembarking for lunch. Sera Fine Silk's striped braces are woven
from a fine silk and are bold enough to ensure that you’ll stand out on the horizon.