The best menswear moments from Milan Men's Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week Men's FW24 came and went with the speed and intensity of a dream. Among the many things we saw, between the after parties, presentations and of course the fashion shows, the event highlighted the creative prowess of labels like Brunello Cucinelli, known for its elegant tailoring, and Gucci, which presented a refreshed, minimalistic aesthetic under new leadership. Fendi's innovative take on classic styles, Dolce & Gabbana's sharp 'Sleek' collection, and Zegna's sophisticated menswear were also standout attractions. Each brand brought its unique vision to the runway, offering a glimpse into the future of menswear with their Fall/Winter 2024 collections.
For Brunello Cucinelli's Fall/Winter 2024 collection at Milan Men's Fashion Week, the brand presented a line that beautifully combined classic styles with contemporary reinterpretations. The collection featured knitwear as a key component, with innovative takes on classic designs using waffle stitches and textured yarns. Geometric patterns inspired by the '70s and '80s added a playful nostalgia. Velvet was prominently used for special occasions, adorned with Prince of Wales or paisley motifs. The Mountain capsule collection brought elegance to skiwear with soft velvets and refined fabrics. Footwear was characterised by a blend of traditional and modern styles, including winter moccasins, Beatles boots, zippered ankle boots, and classic derbies with lightweight soles, showcasing the brand's commitment to timeless elegance and contemporary design
Sabato De Sarno's debut as Gucci's creative director marked a return to the minimalistic elegance reminiscent of Tom Ford's era, departing from Alessandro Michele's eclectic maximalism. The collection showcased Gucci's signature monogram and colour palette on streamlined suits and wool coats, highlighting the brand's enduring appeal. The Jackie bag's revival, initially designed in 1961, underscored Gucci's heritage in leather goods, an essential aspect of the label's identity.
Giorgio Armani's collection revisited the relaxed elegance of the 1980s, showcasing the brand's iconic soft tailoring. The collection's use of jacquard grey tweed and herringbone fabrics highlighted Armani's commitment to timeless design and quality craftsmanship.
Brioni's AW/24 collection under Norbert Stumpfl emphasized ease of wear while honoring the brand's tailoring heritage. The inclusion of more casual elements like field jackets and anoraks signaled a shift towards versatile, high-end leisurewear, in line with Brioni's reputation for luxurious, well-crafted menswear.
Silvia Venturini Fendi's FW 24 collection, inspired by Princess Anne's attire at the 2023 coronation, blended royal elegance with practicality. The "Town and Country" theme was reflected in pine green overcoats, denim, and mohair jackets. Fendi's mastery in creating luxurious yet wearable menswear was evident in the collection's attention to detail and high-quality materials.
Celebrating its 90th anniversary in 2024, Canali's "Into Nature" collection was a tribute to the outdoors. The blend of traditional motifs with modern tailoring techniques showcased Canali's enduring craftsmanship and innovation in menswear design.
Under Alessandro Sartori, Zegna's collection epitomized the concept of quiet luxury. The focus on cashmere in various forms, from knits to coats, demonstrated Zegna's expertise in high-quality materials and understated design, appealing to a clientele that values both tradition and contemporary style.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana's "Sleek" collection marked a return to the brand's roots, focusing on elegance and handmade craftsmanship. The collection's emphasis on black tailoring and playful elements like fur overcoats and whimsical brooches demonstrated the brand's ability to balance classic sophistication with contemporary appeal.