For a long time, Spain has sat in the shadows of Italian and
British craftsmen, content to produce the highest quality shoes for
local patrons, waiting (quietly) to be unearthed and shared into
the international spotlight. That’s all changed in recent years,
though. Now, Spanish shoemaking is celebrated as equally as their
European brethren, recognised for their superior leather and
Iberian flair. But who sits at the top of the mantle? Who is the
crème-de-la-crème of Spain’s Zapatero heroes?
The answer is a gentleman not originally from Spain, but from
Argentina. A man who hadn’t undertaken formal shoemaking at an
early age, but after quitting a legal career to pursue his dreams
in Europe. That man is Norman Vilalta. Now based in Barcelona,
Norman is spoken of in the same devoted tones as British and
Italian experts – a pioneer and an artist with a distinctive
vision, whose products, and especially his boots, have already
earned their place in any self-respecting collection.
From Apprentice to Master
After studying with the likes of Stefano Bemer at workshops
throughout Florence, Norman undertook bespoke shoemaking for an
exclusive clientele. His education and work allowed him to develop
a deep understanding of each aspect of shoe making - from leathers,
to welting, to the colour combinations and patinas. And so, ten
successful years went by. Wanting more men to experience the
feeling of a bespoke shoe, Norman then decided to apply his
expertise to a ready-to-wear line.
The Rake is proud to be sharing a selection of Norman Vilalta’s
boots online. With all the elegance of classic shoemaking, Norman’s
signature touch are the little details that elevate your Chelsea’s,
Derby’s, and Chukka’s, into something unusual and special; the
patinated leathers that reveal a true artist at work. As you might
expect, each boot is designed in his hallowed Barcelona workshop,
Goodyear welted, and made in Spain. And because each shape is
re-imagined by Norman, these aren’t your typical boots. These are
Norman Vilalta boots, the pinnacle of Spanish shoe-making, and a
fresh take on the shapes you know and love (but might learn to love
a little more).
Norman Vilalta’s Derby Simple Boot
As seen on so many of the world’s well-heeled, including The
Rake’s founder Wei Koh, the Derby Simple boot Norman designs is
like a blank canvas, where his creative spirit runs wild (in the
form of his 3D patina effect). Casual enough for that extra level
of expression, they are produced from the finest pebble grain
leather (sourced from Tannery du Puy in France). Their Goodyear
welt construction and Vibram Commando Sole add an element of
military ruggedness to their elegant shape, and each is
professionally hand patinated before being sent out. Wear it like
Wei, with tailoring, or with a pair of selvedge denim and a blouson
for a smart-casual look.
Norman Vilalta’s Chelsea Boot
The mastery and craft of Norman’s Decon Chelsea boots are a
sight to behold. Where else do we see this kind of finish outside
of the small, bespoke temples run by the shoemaking masters? Here,
we get a sense of Norman’s Florentine influence, but also some of
the flourishes that showcase his own unique style. In brown, grey,
or black, the elasticated side (present in most Chelsea boots) is
covered partially by an unusual two-holed vamp - a welcome
reimagining of the classic shape we know and love. But, if we’re
honest, we like Norman’s vision a little more. (In fact, we often
do.)
Norman Vilalta’s Chukka Boot
The Chukka boot is a style staple, dressed up or down, in
leather or suede. However, it’s also arguably one of the most
dogmatic designs, hardly innovated beyond a couple of different
leathers, soles, and colours. But not Norman’s. As with the Chelsea
boot, he has adapted the shape just enough so that it appears
distinctive from other iterations, but still classic. With a lined
quarter and a quilted and padded insole, the Decon Chukka is a more
fantastical and creative shape, made with suede from Charles
Stead’s tannery in Britain. The end result feels both familiar and
new: an example of Norman Vilalta’s unique, rather artistic,
approach to classic boot-making.
