To anyone who knows Naples, the lack of visitors is both one of the mysteries and the joys of the city. For all of the inequitable scepticism of Naples, it is not a city of restraint; raw, passionate and vibrant, it has long been the Mediterranean capital for artisanal excellence. Despite its undue deficiency of foreigners compared to Florence and Rome, it is those with the sophisticated nous of seeking exceptional men’s tailoring that have been visiting the city for hundreds of years.
As far back as the late 19th century Neapolitan tailoring closely resembled those being made by contemporaries on Savile Row (it still does to an extent) but there is one house responsible for defining the Neapolitan tailoring trademark. And that is the noble house of Rubinacci, who are the undisputed foremost innovator for this iconic school of Italian menswear.
The Rubinacci family has been in the bespoke business since 1932, when Gennaro Rubinacci, an art collector, with à la mode connections to royal and princely families, established the company, dubbing it “The London House” to remind customers of Savile Row. Gennaro foresaw, nearly 100 years ahead (not literally) with the radical idea: to make unstructured, unlined jackets meant to be worn out of the office.