Rubinacci: Summer hues from their signature design arsenal

Neapolitan tailoring titans, Rubinacci perfectly besiege the summer casual appearance with their contemporary and yet original takes on the military inspired Manny trouser and Sahariana.

Naples is unlike any other Italian city of its size. It befittingly still exerts this congruent veneer, stemming from its mythological founder, a siren. And its history - Norman, French, Austrian and Spanish dominations layered one over the other – has left multifaceted influences on art, architecture and culture. Down in the dense lanes and alleys of the centro storico, you can blithely find yourself in front of a baroque jewel, the Pio Monte della Misericordia which preserves Caravaggio’s painting, The Seven Works of Mercy. The city’s artisanal excellence has often come from regal roots. The Rubinacci fortune was founded in shipping during the 19th century and it allowed Gennaro Rubinacci the fashion houses founder to delve into the city’s rich art scene as a collector and thus surround himself with royal and princely families. Formally an officer in a fashionable cavalry regiment, it was no surprise that Gennaro had this insatiable appetite for an aesthete, which would soon entice men of good families to entrust Gennaro with their appearance. They would constantly ask him for advice on cut, fit, cloth and style. As the demand got greater, he decided to open his own tailoring emporium at 25 Via Filangieri under the name of London House. When Gennaro’s son, Mariano took control of the company he kept the name for two years before deciding to change the name to Rubinacci.

As of 2018, Gennaro’s grandson, Luca, who is also the creative director, launched the firm’s ready-to-wear line with tremendous success. The latest collection offered on The Rake’s ecommerce platform typifies the brand’s continued pioneering renaissance of the Manny trouser – with its signature Gurkha fastening. Corresponding with Gennaro’s military background, but instead deriving from the Nepalese Kingdom of Gorkha and the elite Nepalese soldiers – the Gurkhas. It now comes in a variety of cloths such as wool, cotton and linen. Their latest collection in cotton, consists of hues ranging from coffee to wine.

Contributor

Hugo Curran

Published

July 2020

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