Renaissance Masters: Luca & Mariano Rubinacci

Father Mariano and Son Luca Rubinacci are a father and son pairing like no other; the heads of a Neapolitan tailoring dynasty.
Renaissance Masters: Luca & Mariano Rubinacci
Luca and Mariano Rubinacci. Between them these two men have spread the infectious gospel of Neapolitan tailored style across the globe, transforming their eponymous bespoke tailoring house into a truly international luxury menswear brand in the process. The secret of their success might be too complex to distill in a mere few hundred words, but the authentic sense of self-expression imbued in their clothes provides at least some indication of that which is so compelling about Rubinacci's style. The two have worked very closely together to achieve this success, building their joint-vision into the family business. Luca says 'every day I learn something new from my father - he is a great friend to me as well as a mentor - I love to argue with him and have fun with him - I'm lucky to have a father like that'. Mariano reciprocates: 'My father taught me to be yourself all the time - Luca understands this, I love his interpretation of style and how he matches his accessories'. You know what they say - like father, like son.
Luca's seafoam green linen double-breasted coat is trademark Rubinacci; colourful and nonchalant. He says 'having the buttons rolled low on a double-breasted jacket lends it an easier feel. I tend to button it to the higher button when I need to dress more formally'.
The coral lapel chain is yet another a valuable trinket designed to bring Luca good luck.
This Tonda 1950 timepiece from Parmigiani Fleurier was a gift from Mariano to Luca, marking the opening of Rubinacci's new flagship store in Milan.
Mariano's red ribbon reminds him of his family - his wife used to tie a red ribbon around the wrist of every family member at Christmas to bring 'health, luck and prosperity' to the Rubinaccis. Luca's bracelets are also lucky, always given to him by someone he cares for. 'The first one was from my mother, and is perhaps the most special. She used to give me a new bracelet every year to bring me good luck.'
Mariano's blazer buttons are made especially for Rubinacci in polished corozo. A bespoke yachting club blazer commissioned by a customer inspired the design.
Both Mariano and Luca are wearing Rubinacci hankies, naturally. 'Our hankies are designed to be so colourful that they'll go with anything - no matter how you fold them' says Luca.
Luca's vivid purple trousers make a serious statement. Cut in a lightweight linen plainweave, the double-pleats and buckling waistband are Rubinacci signatures. Luca always has pleats on his tailored trousers - 'a flat front is best left for jeans and chinos.'
Luca's striped braces bring together his jacket and trousers. His knitted silk tie features a special weave for Rubinacci and again, Luca's ethos suggests that elegance has to come naturally: 'I tie my tie as I feel in the morning - if you feel it, wear it!'
'Luca introduced me to loafers' says Mariano. 'They're very comfortable, young and elegant - even with a tuxedo - I love them!'
In Mariano's opinion, classic navy hopsacks and twills make for the best blazering cloths, 'fabrics which can embody the strong, masculine origins of the nautical blazer'.
Mariano's classic round tortoiseshell spectacles are an old and much cherished favourite; 'I like very traditional eyewear, I don't feel myself if I change from these.'