THE RAKE TAILORED GARMENTS SPRING/SUMMER 2021 COLLECTION

For a new season of menswear in a post-lockdown world, The Rake’s team gave itself an urgent challenge to create a collection that would embody comfort as well as a renewed hunger for fit and cut, whilst retaining an ethical and sustainable approach to quality and price. The result — typified by a pioneering ready-to-wear jacket — is our proudest achievement yet.

  • fashion director Veronica Perez

  • by Wei Koh

  • photography Kim Lang

The Rake Tailored Garments Ivory Linen DB Jacket, $USD 565, and Ivory Linen Trousers, $USD 190.

Over the past year, like everyone reading this, I’ve done a lot of imagining. I have imagined the places I’ll visit and the friends I’ll hug and share laughter and meals with. When I think about these things happening perhaps even in late summer, I feel an ineffable happiness, a sense of palpable joy and a rush of renewed hope. When I close my eyes, I imagine the future and can almost feel I am there. I wanted our new collection to reflect the casualisation we have experienced but, at the same time, signal a reignited excitement over perfect cut and fit. I wanted our tailoring to be perfect for a walk on the beach with the pants rolled to your calves and your feet in the sand. I wanted our tailoring to make you always feel at ease but elegant, understated but empowered. I wanted you to always feel like the coolest guy in the room.

I wanted them to be pure, elemental, authentic and essential. But also, and importantly, economically attainable. We have worked hard to price these jackets in a way that allows everyone the ability to purchase the collection, whilst retaining the quality and appeal of the Made In Italy artisanship. The jackets, therefore, are available at under $USD 600, and our beautiful trousers at under $USD 200.

Please note: as this is a MTO collection, the buying window is open from now until Wednesday 7th April, 2021.

Video by Marcus Ebanks

Learning from our incredible 'Lorenzo Cifonelli for The Rake' collaboration with Lorenzo, the Cifonelli team and sui generis fabric makers Loro Piana, this time our team didn’t start with design. Instead we focused on how the clothes would make you feel. Cifonelli explained: “You want to imagine the emotions your client has when he slips on the Rake jacket for the first time.” I replied, “I want him to feel comforted and liberated at the same time”. Cifonelli: “Then you need to go back to your factory and work on the construction over and over until they achieve this.” As such, we started from scratch with the objective of making a structure for our jackets that conveyed the same feeling as for a shirt. We steadily removed layers of lining and padding until we were left with the bare minimum.

During this process we realised that even if we wanted absolute comfort and unrestricted movement, we also wanted style and amazing fit. Over the phone I explained to Lorenzo: “I want the feeling of a jacket that feels like a casual shirt, but when you look in the mirror there has to be an immediate reaction, where you say, ‘Goddamn, I look sexy’.” Cifonelli laughed and said, “Now you need to work on the fit and design. While this sounds simple, it really is not. Don’t forget that if your objective is for men to look primal, virile or, as you say, sexy, every detail — the shape of the peak, the angle of the gorge, the position and shape of the chest pocket, the shoulder construction, the placement of pockets, the length of the pleats, the shape of the chest, the line created by the side seam — has to be considered. Not only do each of these have to be optimised, they also have to all work harmoniously with each other. Just one element that is out of place and the harmony is destroyed.”

Published

March 2021

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