For clarity, there are various
types of tweed all with different properties and make-up. Tweed
woven in the Borders is finer and softer than the likes of
Harris Tweed, which Walker Slater also uses
throughout its range. This is because, for the most part, Border
weavers use merino wool instead of natively sourced wool from the
Highlands and Lowlands. “It’s quite literally down to the nature of
the beast, as the climate breeds the animal which breeds the type
of wool,” explains Robin. Merino sheep that are reared in
Australasia’s warmer and drier climate, and compared to that of the
United Kingdom have a finer and softer yarn, which is in turn
better suited for contemporary tweed tailoring.
After the tweeds are finished
and supplied to Walker Slater, they are incorporated into its
ready-to-wear and made-to-measure range, with the blocks cut
outside of Leeds. Walker Slater’s stores, of which there are three
in Edinburgh, are all located on Grassmarket, a historic market
place street in the Old Town. Each space is thoughtfully curated
with relevant and idiosyncratic items such as vintage cameras,
suitcases and photographs that grace the oak-clad shelves and grey
brick walls. “For me, it’s definitely an experience with a client
in the store,” says Akeel Rafiq, the tailoring-trained store
manager who has a scrupulous eye for detail. Amazingly, Akeel tells
me that all their staff are all tailoring and made-to-measure
trained, so with their in-store experience they know how to work
with a suit and understand its limitations. In addition to their
tailoring, the store also curates a considered range of casual and
country clothing, such as shetland knitwear, Northampton-made shoes
and an excellent range of cords.
Rather than wash, dye and spin its own yarn, Andrew Elliot
sources it from a number of suppliers, including the likes of R.
Gledhill Ltd who’s based outside of Manchester. From there, the
yarns are then warped and wefted into a pattern that’s designed by
Robin. The romance of Andrew Elliot is that it uses looms dating
back almost 100 years. “I don't know what it is but it’s something
in the way that the old equipment seems to weave. It’s a bit
different,” Paul explains, “the equipment doesn't push the fibres
to the millimetre, so I think there’s an openness to it which seems
to not detract from the durability. You get slightly less yarn in
the square inch, which suits our requirements.” This traditional
fabrication process mixed with a contemporary injection of colour,
pattern and a softer yarn is drastically changing the perception of
tweed, and much of this is down to Robin, whom Paul refers to as “a
designer, as he designs each tweed”. Walker Slater see this merino
wool tweed as integral to the fabric’s prosperity and future. It
retains the traditional tweed’s durable handle and rich texture
whilst offering a cloth that’s softer, lighter and more
versatile.
Offering a range of cuts, from
the traditional James with its high break-point, boxy waist and
notched lapel to the Edward, which is a slim fitting, long jacket
with two side vents and a peaked lapel, they are relaxed,
unstructured and soft-shouldered. For tweed to succeed in this day
and age, “the cut has to be just right”, as Akeel tells me, and the
solution seems to be evident in Walker Slater’s relaxed,
contemporary approach. Their work stands as proof that the idea of
tweed as a stiff, unflattering and outdated cloth can be put to
bed. By utilising its full potential as a durable, trans-seasonal
fabric with an infinite amount of timeless design
possibilities, the brand has re-envisaged it as an elegant,
versatile and essential item for a modern rakish
wardrobe.
Walker Slater
Stores
Walker Slater, Grassmarket, 16-20 Victoria Street, EH1
2HG, Edinburgh
Walker Slater, 114 Brunswick St, G1
1TF, Glasgow
Walker Slater, 845 Fulham Road, SW6 5HJ,
London
Walker Slater, Covent Garden, 38 Great Queen Street,
WC2B 5AA, London
www.walkerslater.com
