Pocket Guide: Salvatore Ambrosi

During a trip to Naples earlier this year, we paid a visit to Salvatore Ambrosi, who took us through some of his most prized possessions. In addition to expertly-crafted trousers, his other loves are cars, vintage watches and Neapolitan tailoring, naturally.
Pocket Guide: Salvatore Ambrosi

High above Via Chiaia, a bustling street in the historic centre of Naples, lies the workshop of family-run trouser specialists Ambrosi. During a visit earlier this year, we were given an insight into how the house's artisans go about their work, and witnessed the attention to detail that goes into both its ready-to-wear and bespoke offering. The company is currently headed by Salvatore Ambrosi, a cool, calm, collected, chain-smoking Neapolitan who’s the third generation of his family to cut cloth, whilst his father, Antonio, still works with the same passion as he did 30 years ago. Whilst we were documenting the production of our collaboration with the Ambrosi household, we also had a chance to dip into Salva’s pockets.

Salva spends his hard-earned money on one of two things: cars and watches. “They’re the only two things that I can buy," he says. "I’m currently driving a Jaguar, but before that, I drove a Porsche. But now I’ve got two kids, so I can’t,” he says. A true Neapolitan, he buys his suits from three Neapolitan tailors: Orazio Luciano, Sartoria Dalcuore and Sartoria Solito, which is where he received his first suit from. “I wear suits from these three, but that doesn’t mean the other ones are bad,” he adds.

On the day we meet, Salva is wearing an Orazio Luciano jacket and waistcoat with his own trousers, cut from a navy, herringbone worsted woolen cloth from Drapers. I was curious as to why he wears his watch — a beautiful two-tone Rolex Datejust on a Jubilee bracelet — on his right hand. “Because we’re in Napoli. Everyone in Napoli wears their watch on their right hand,” he replies, explaining that it would be foolish to wear it on your left as it can be swiftly alleviated while driving by skilled pickpockets. On the bottom, Salva sports the Picadilly model loafer from Edward Green, which is his go-to for ready-to-wear shoes.

Click through the images to find out more.

Whilst the trousers are, naturally, Ambrosi, the jacket and waistcoat have been cut by Orazio Luciano. Salva was in Shanghai for a trunk show with the tailoring house, and liked the look of Pino Luciano's suit so much that he requested that he make one for him too.
In addition to his watch, Salva wears a Cartier bracelet with his initials engraved, a two-tone ring from Parisian jeweller Boucheron and his wedding ring.
Ambrosi is currently working with Florence-based Tie Your Tie, which specialises in seven fold ties. His white shirt is from The Armoury, and he usually gets his polo shirts and collarless shirts from Luca Avitabile.
Salva's foulard is also from Tie Your Tie, and offers a point of difference from his striped tie and navy jacket.
Salva buys his ready-to-wear shoes from Edward Green, and orders his made-to-measure or made-to-order pairs from Saint Crispins. He tells me that he has good feet, so he doesn't need bespoke shoes.
Salva wears his two-tone Rolex Datejust on a Jubilee bracelet. The dial is brushed gold and appears
Hidden away in the workshop is Salva's watch roll, however, he has many more at home. From left to right: Patek Philippe Nautilus in rose gold; Rolex Explorer II in steel and Rolex Submariner in steel and yellow gold, which is his