Dap was ahead of his time and understood the power of the logo. He applied street
smarts and a bodacious mentality to couture by screen printing the monograms of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Fendi and MCM
on to premium leathers and married them with luxurious and unusual materials from ostrich to mink, and python to
kevlar. The trailblazer created garments aimed at young African Americans, as luxury brands did not cater to their
demographic and would often stigmatised them if they were to venture down Fifth Avenue and into their stateside
flagships.
Similar to hip hop’s forbears, Dap exercised the same process used in developing the
genre: sampling, mixing and cutting. From Louis Vuitton bomber jackets to fully-clad MCM car interiors, Gucci bulletproof parkas to Fendi baseball caps, Dap could
create anything, including silhouettes that luxury brands would never dream of. The hip hop and crack generation’s
mindset was very much focused on breaking free from the social restraints set upon by previous generations and
political rule. So, outlandishly showcasing luxury goods via the forms of clothing, jewellery and cars was evidence
of having ‘made it’. Owning a piece by Dapper Dan was widely considered to be the pinnacle of the period’s success.
It made you ‘someone’.
Gangsters, street hustlers and Harlem kingpins were his initial customers. They took
his creations to the streets and were soon followed by rappers and sport stars who took it to the entertainment
industry. Before hip hop’s explosion, the visual narrative of genres such as jazz, rock, blues and disco formed the
inspirational basis for his commissions. Dap took cues from the aforementioned genre’s icons on their sartorial
elegance and swagger and injected a dose of street culture, with wider and looser silhouettes, sharp collars and
shorter jackets marred with bold, contrasting patterns and logos. The renowned Harlem kingpin Alpo Martinez — whose
tale of rags-to-riches-to-snitches was the inspiration for the popular 2002 crime filmPaid In Full, which is filled with Dapper Dan
references — once commissioned Dap to create 11 suits in one go, each nearing $10,000. Some jackets were fitted with
extra deep pockets to conceal weapons. Martinez is now in the witness protection system following incarceration for
multiple murders and violent crimes,but in his heyday sporting Dapper Dan eluded power and a sense of
vigilante and untouchable outlaw.
Recognition by the golden age’s leading artists cemented Dap’s reputation within the
New York community and beyond with commissions coming in from Washington DC and the West coast.The formidable
rap duo Eric B. & Rakim wore matching Gucci jackets - created by Dap - on the covers of their hit records
Paid In Full (1987) and Follow The Leader(1988). Paid In Fullis widely considered to be the
greatest rap album ever, and as a result Dap’s creations will always be associated with that legend. LL Cool J
rocked a Gucci red bomber jacket to match his Kangol bucket hat and performed in a two-piece MCM tracksuit, both of
which bought from Dapper Dan. One of the most iconic looks was sported by the late
DJ E-Z Rock, who commissioned Dap to create him a brown velour two-piece tracksuit with Louis Vuitton monogram side
seams. He went as far as having the Nike ‘tick’ on his Air Force 1 in matching Louis Vuitton leather. Other notable
artists include Salt-N-Pepper, Big Daddy Kane, The Fat Boys, KRS-One and Jam Master Jay.
Dap’s boutique was no stranger to extraordinary events and run-ins with the law. In
the build up to his heavyweight title defence against Frank Bruno in 1988, the New Yorker and king of controversy
Mike Tyson commissioned Dap to create him a jacket with ‘Don’t Believe The Hype’ — the track title to one of Public
Enemy’s hit records — on the back. Whilst collecting his jacket, he got into an altercation with fellow heavyweightMitch Green, who wanted a rematch to a fight he lost in 1986. Not
seeing eye to eye, the two had a fight that sprawled onto the street outside Dap’s store. Tyson threw one of his
infamous right hands, suffering a hairline fracture in the process, but firmly and savagely closed Green’s left eye.
Tyson’s endorsement of Dapper Dan and his knack for gaining headlines packed a punch and made the designer highly
newsworthy. Dap has also designed boxing shorts for the now retired and ‘TBE’ Floyd
Mayweather, who, of course, is well-known for bragging about his wealth.
Since Dap’s boutique opened its doors in 1982, there have been countless references
of it in popular culture and mentions in rapper’s rhymes. He had a profound influence not just in a visual sense,
but also lyrically. Such is his street legend, it wasn't long until the luxury brands he was mimicking caught wind
of his success and had the authorities raid his store on a number of occasions. They shut him down in 1992 and
forced him underground. In the grand scheme of things, within a short span of ten years Dapper Dan curated hip-hop
culture and demonstrated a totally alternative way of thinking and approach to design, paving the way for future
high-end streetwear designers. When looking at the luxury world today you can’t ignore the most minute references —
from bold silhouettes to overt use of branding — that wouldn’t occur if it wasn't for Dapper Dan. Earlier this year
Louis Vuitton, headed by Kim Jones (who has cited Dap as an inspiration) collaborated with Supreme on a huge,
in-your-face heavily branded collection. Ten years earlier, though, Louis Vuitton sued Supreme for copyright
infringement. This is all further evidence that the chasm between streetwear and luxury isn't what it used to be. The
fact that Dap has, finally, been accepted by the luxury world is a good and well deserved recognition, and it’s
rumoured that he will be re-opening his store after a 25-year hiatus and creating a capsule collection for
Gucci.
